Jeff Baker came to York with red-hot CV and in two years Bistro Moderne has become a red hot ticket. Perched at the top end of Fossgate, which is the city’s best eating strip, his clever and vivacious cooking has left the local oppositions standing.

It’s clever because Baker sends out exquisite plates of big bold British flavours in an atmosphere that is laid back, relaxed and fun. The fun comes on the plate with starters of beetroot trifle, or house cured sardines with candied lemon pizza, and a high quality version of jelly and ice cream with lemon curd and butter biscuit that he calls ‘lemon tops’. None of these takes away from the seriousness of his cooking, whether it’s slow-cooked pig’s cheek or quick-cooked calf’s liver.

As we as the a la carte, Baker has now imported the successful lunchtime grazing menu of small dishes to the evening, with seven little courses that others would dub a tasting menu. Wines are usefully listed by style, with house wine at £11.95. Upstairs is a Chocolate Room where you can push the boat out in to decadent waters with truffles, fondue, hot chocolate or the ultimate white chocolate martini.