Yorkshire Post Magazine : Robert Cockroft : 30th December 2006

Robert Cockroft chooses his Six of the Best restaurants reviewed in the Yorkshire Post Magazine over the past year.

Restaurant of the Year: Jeff Baker's Bistro Moderne, York

It's a year since the Michelin-starred Pool Court Restaurant closed in Leeds and its head chef Jeff Baker (left) headed to York to start his own venture. It was a brave move. York is tricky territory for chefs of any stripe, and Baker was aiming for a more relaxed style of menu and presentation. His gamble has paid off, making this the most interesting place to dine in the city. By night he offers a short à la carte; by day his intelligent grazing menu beats anything in the neighbourhood for quality of ingredients and sharpness of ideas. Dishes like pressed ham hock with pease pudding, spiced Whitby crab on toast, cod in beer batter, mussel and potato hotpot or rhubarb fool don't break the bank but they do underline the presence of conspicuous talent.