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The Week Magazine : 15th July 2006
The ancient city of York isn’t the first place you’d expect to find a Bistro Moderne, says Terry Durack in The Independent on Sunday. Located in an old piano shop, this “narrow, spare dinning room” may not be much to look at, but the short confident menu so “hot to trot”, you’ll hardly notice.
The chef has given a new twist to local dishes, including Yorkshire Asparagus soup, and steak, egg and chips.
Everything Durack sampled was good - “flavour-packed, fresh and well put together” - except the daily fish special, which was “way beyond good”. A combination of butter-poached monkfish, crab juices, broad beans, peas, artichokes and pasta, it’s a “cracker”. Pudding was a modern take on Northern Favourite”- lemon tops, a “glorious hotchpotch” of jelly, lemon curd ice cream, biscuits and berries. In culinary terms, York has leapt into 21st century.
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