The Knowledge : The Times : 1st July 2006

THE BIG EAT from a selection of 10

J Baker's Bistro Moderne in York's historic Fossgate may sound a bit of a mouthful but, rest assured, Jeff Baker's first solo venture is all about using simple, local ingredients to try to woo the locals as well as the Minster-visiting tourists. He held a Michelin star at Pool Court for ten years (it closed at the end of last year), so there's no doubting the Middlesbrough-born chef's pedigree. But even though he insists it's not stars he's after here - his motto is "inclusivity not exclusivity" - Baker's extensive skills show in the cooking.

The grazing menu is available throughout the day and early evening, while a fixed-price a la carte is offered after 7pm. The real highlight, though, will be the soon-to-open Chocolate Room where customers can relax on comfy chocolate-coloured sofas over coffee and homemade chocs from Baker's chocolate counter.