Carina Simon : The Guardian The Guide : 27th May 2006

After holding a Michelin star for 10 years at the recently defunct Pool Court in Leeds, Jeff Baker's first solo venture is a more inclusive affair, but the cooking still reflects the chef's pedigree. Situated in the historic Fossgate, in what was once a piano shop, J Baker's Bistro Moderne offers a grazing menu by day and early evening and a set price à la carte dinner menu.

Middlesbrough-born Baker uses local ingredients to great effect in both. The grazing menu might offer Swaledale Old Peculiar, spiced apple chips and shandy or handmade black pudding with scotch egg, while evening diners can try stew and dumplings, red deer braised in local ales and spring vegetables or a luxurious twist on lemon tops - that northern seaside favourite - with lemon tops, curd ice cream, jelly and biscuits. Upstairs there's the Chocolate Room serving plates of homemade chocolates.

7 Fossgate (Tel: 01904-622688); evening price per head £25